Wine Advocate 92

Turning back the clock, the 1979 vintage is remembered as a cold and rainy year. Moreover, historians at Argiano recall that winery workers closed the fermentation tanks in October, went on a strike—leaving the winery empty—and didn't come back until November. That unexpected pause during fermentation (with presumably no movement of the cap) shows just how versatile and ultimately enduring Sangiovese earmarked for Brunello can be. An impressive wine that feels bright and fresh after so many years of cellar aging, the Argiano 1979 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is indeed a fascinating time capsule. The wine reveals a dark garnet color, and the bouquet offers highlights of graphite, ash, smoke and dark spice. The wine is smooth and supple to the palate, and it shows the elegance of age. I very much enjoyed this unique tasting experience.