Wine Advocate 92(LV2020)
 
Leclapart’s NV Blanc de Blancs L'Artiste (2020), crafted from two southeast-facing old-vine plots planted in 1985 and 1974, was vinified in equal parts in enameled tanks and oak barrels. Exhibiting aromas of dried white flowers, lemon zest and warm brioche mingling with smoke, it's medium- to full-bodied and concentrated yet taut, with a more generous core of fruit than L'Amateur. While L'Amateur displays a vertical profile, L'Artiste is more expansive and horizontal.
 
Since 1998, David Leclapart has been instrumental in putting Trépail on the international map and inspiring others in Montagne de Reims to adopt chemical-free farming practices. Today, he, along with his sons Martin and Léo, runs a 2.95-hectare estate, where the average vine age is 50 years. The estate has been Demeter-certified since 1998 and Biodyvin-certified since 2020.
 
Each of Leclapart's expressive wines exhibits a distinct personality, reflecting both the place and the philosophy of their creator. They are all single-vintage, and each is disgorged without dosage, allowing the chalky signature of the place to shine through even more vividly.